Drive the Vespa yourself or ride pillion on the Amalfi Coast
Every Vespa tour on this coast settles one question first, who holds the handlebars. Two tours let you drive, the other two put a driver in front of you. This page sets out each tour's rule, the licence question and the catch that can cost a couple their whole day.
Two seats, two different days
Riding pillion means sitting behind a driver who knows the road. You can turn your head to the sea at every bend, take photos with both hands free and leave the buses to someone else.
Driving gives you the controls and the feel of the road, but your eyes stay on the asphalt. On the Amalfi Drive that means hairpins, coaches and parked cars, so the view mostly arrives at the stops.
Neither seat is the cheaper one by default. On NapolinVespa the self-drive couple shares one scooter, which lowers the price per person, while the driver option books a Vespa and a driver for each guest. Our guide to what a Vespa tour costs shows the figures.
NapolinVespa sells both
NapolinVespa's private day at ~$421 is the one tour here that sells driving and riding pillion as separate options. Viator reviewers give it 5.0 across 200+ reviews, GetYourGuide shows 4.9 from 100+, and it is our pick.
The With Driver option gives each guest one Vespa and one driver, so you ride pillion all day. Hotel pickup is always included with this option. It is the safe choice if anyone in your party has doubts about riding.
The Self Drive option gives one Vespa per couple. One of you drives, the other sits behind, and the guide leads the way. A valid driving licence is mandatory, and the listing asks for real scooter experience, not an occasional ride on holiday.
Pick your seat when you book
NapolinVespa sells With Driver and Self Drive as separate options on both sites. Choose the driver if you have any doubt about your riding.
The riding check and its catch
On the self-drive option you first sign the rental contract and leave a deposit on a credit card. Staff then watch you ride at a short briefing before the tour sets off.
If they judge your riding unsatisfactory, you do not ride. The listing says you cannot switch to a driver on the day, and there is no refund. That is the hardest rule among the four tours.
It is also the main reason we steer anyone unsure toward the driver option from the start. The check exists for good cause, and our guide to safety on the coast road describes what waits on the bends.
Federico drives unless you ask
Federico's full day at ~$410 includes an experienced driver as standard. You sit behind and he handles the bends, and the listing says he grew up on this coast.
You may drive yourself only if you have scooter experience and message Federico before booking. Ask early, since his answer shapes the day you get.
His sunset ride at ~$319 comes with a driver too. Our sunset or full day guide compares the two.
Amalfi Moto Rent puts you in front
Amalfi Moto Rent's tour at ~$364 works the other way round. You drive a brand-new automatic Vespa Primavera behind the guide, who chooses the stops and sets the pace.
An automatic means no clutch and no gears, which helps on steep starts from a standstill. If you have no scooter experience, book a driver in advance instead. Riders under 18 may not drive, and the tour rates 5.0 from 100+ reviews on Viator.
This sits halfway between a guided day and a rental. Our rental or tour guide sets the two side by side.
Licences and the permit
Whoever drives must carry a licence that covers the scooter in question. Travelers whose licence comes from a country outside the EU are often asked for an International Driving Permit in Italy, carried with their home licence.
The rules depend on where your licence was issued and on the scooter itself. Ask the operator which licences they accept before you book, and if the answer is unclear, take the driver.
Pack the papers with the rest of your kit. Our list of what to wear on a Vespa includes them.
Who should ride pillion
- First-timers who have never ridden a scooter
- Anyone nervous in traffic or on steep hairpins
- Couples who both want to watch the view
- Riders used to driving on the left at home
- Anyone who wants the limoncello tasting without a second thought
Riding pillion does not mean missing out on the Vespa itself. You still feel every bend and every climb, and at the stops you can swap seats for a photo with the engine off.
Passengers still have a job. Lean with the driver rather than against, hold on at the handles or the driver's waist, and keep your feet on the footrests until the scooter has stopped.
Who can drive with confidence
Self-drive suits people who ride scooters at home in town traffic and on hills. If you commute on two wheels, the coast will feel busy but familiar.
Leave the limoncello to your passenger and save some energy for the ride back. The road asks for attention to the last bend, and the guide to where the route stops shows how the day is laid out.
Driving also changes what you pack. Bring your licence and any permit in a zipped pocket, wear closed shoes with grip, and leave long scarves at the hotel, since they can catch in the wheel.
If two of you want to drive, NapolinVespa's self-drive still puts a couple on one Vespa. Amalfi Moto Rent gives each rider a scooter, which suits a pair who both want the controls.